Much more than idli-dosa: How region and ecology shape the cuisine of North Karnataka

Malenadu Hoy Happala two ways — steamed and fried with ondelaga (brahmi) chutney | Photo Credit: Ole Project

Think ‘Karnataka cuisine’ and benne doas and Udupi food come to mind. Unseen behind the popularity of darshinis and idli-vadas, is the very different cuisine of North Karnataka, that is born from its arid, drought-affected landscape. With the Ole Project, chef and researcher Anusha Venkatesh is preserving the cuisine of North Karnataka and looking at it through the lens of geography, produce and sustainability. This weekend, with a pop-up at Watson’s in Bengaluru, Ole Project brings a special menu called Jawari, that takes these grains and produce to another level.

Chef and researcher Anusha Venkatesh | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Ole Project (Ole meaning stove or fireplace in Kannada) began in 2022 when Anusha started researching the various micro cuisines in the State. “Outside the State, this cuisine is very underrepresented, and only food from upper-caste kitchens is visible. In fact, there is no place where you can even get a jolada roti and ennegayi (brinjal curry). The kind of ingredients that we use are so different. So, I started archiving recipes through public records. And we brought it all together on one platform.”