From instant sachets to fresh espresso: Jumla’s evolving palate

A homegrown bakery in Khalanga introduces bean-to-cup coffee and local crop baked goods to urban visitors and local youth alike

Avinash Budthapa, proprietor of ‘Black Stone Bakery’ located in Khalanga, Jumla, posing with a coffee he prepared. All photos: Bidhya Rai

What would a specialty beans coffee connoisseur do to satisfy their craving upon landing in Jumla? They would likely settle for instant coffee carried all the way in their backpack. Such was the experience of Avinash Budthapa, manager of ‘Black Stone Bakery’ located in Jumla’s district headquarters, Khalanga.

A decade ago, whenever he returned home from Kathmandu, his bag would be packed with chocolates, ice cream, breads, and cakes. Eating bakery items was not yet a practice in Jumla. Unobtainable locally, he had tasted these urban and commercial flavors during his stay in Kathmandu. Thus, he would stock up from Kathmandu whenever traveling home.

Today, that same Avinash is introducing locals in Jumla to new and varied flavors. Amid this transition, urban visitors arriving to explore Jumla’s plains, hills, mountains, and Himalayan lifestyle can also satisfy their craving for familiar tastes.

From cakes to espresso

Located right along the road leading from Tundikhel to the Karnali Academy of Health Sciences stands Avinash’s ‘Black Stone Bakery.’ True to its name, except for the glass front, its exterior is painted black. Before stepping inside, advertisements for cakes, chocolates, burgers, and pizzas catch the eye. Inside, an array of ice creams, cakes, chocolates, and even liquor are neatly displayed. Further inside, muffins, donuts, and bread can be seen in production. Impressive tables, chairs, and sofas awaiting customers lend a distinctly urban vibe.

Product from ‘Black Stone Bakery’ in Khalanga, Jumla.

Hailing from a business family in Khalanga, Avinash had the opportunity to study in Kathmandu from an early age. He grew up amid the vibrancy and culinary culture of the capital. Eager to go abroad, he also took the IELTS examination. Around 2017, while still in Kathmandu and planning to move to Australia, he completed a three-month bakery training course.

However, after hearing about the struggles and hardships of friends who had moved abroad, he put his plans on hold. He returned to Jumla, bag filled once again with ice creams, cakes, and chocolates. But this time, he returned with a firm resolve to utilize the bakery skills learned for going abroad right home in Jumla.

At that time, drinking tea and coffee was customary in Jumla. Black coffee meant simply anything dark in color. Today, the situation has changed.

He consulted his family. On a piece of land owned by his family measuring roughly 10 square meters, he constructed a shed using timber and corrugated zinc sheets. He launched the bakery in March 2018. He used household furniture. A rod oven was also available at home. His initial investment was around Rs 100,000. “I thought if I had to suffer going abroad, I might as well try in my own hometown; if the business doesn’t work out, I can leave after two or three years,” he recalled during a recent interaction.

He had learned to bake cakes, so he started baking and selling them. But it was not as easy as anticipated. For the first six months, selling cakes proved difficult. “Even when asking people to come and try them, there were no takers,” he says.

‘Black Stone Bakery’ run by Avinash Budthapa in Khalanga, Jumla — before and present (right).

At that time, drinking tea and coffee was customary in Jumla. The understanding of black coffee was simply anything dark in color. Today, the situation has changed. “Now, people come specifically for bean-based americanos and espressos,” he says. Young people, office workers, visitors, and employees of local agencies and organizations particularly favor americanos and espressos.